With over 300 millimeters of rainfall annually, the Shikoku Mountains feed the Hiji River, creating a high-volume, self-purifying waterway. Covering much of the Nanyo region in Ehime Prefecture, the river sustains life and culture in the area. Known for its premium-quality river fish, Ozu’s connection to the Hiji River runs deep. Historically, its fish were presented to the Edo shogunate, and today they remain a cherished part of local traditions, as seen in the practice of ukai (cormorant fishing). These fish are celebrated for their culinary excellence and are an integral part of daily life.

From its upper to lower reaches, the Hiji River flows through the heart of the city, providing an abundant water source that supports aquaculture. In the upper river region, known as Kawabe, species like amago (Red-Spotted Trout) and iwana (Char) thrive in abundance. In the central part of the city, near the historic castle town, fishing for ayu (Sweetfish) and kajika (Sculpin) is prominent. Casting or net fishing in the river is a familiar sight and a cherished aspect of Ozu's scenery. Historic dining establishments serve fresh, seasonal river fish prepared with expert craftsmanship.

Ayu is a defining part of Ozu’s culture, celebrated in traditional ukai fishing. Salt-grilled ayu, with its clean and delicate flavor, is the most iconic preparation. Slowly grilled over an irori hearth, its crispy skin, tender white meat, and perfectly seasoned salt create a harmonious taste. Whether it is served as kamameshi, dengaku, zosui, or fried, there are several ways to enjoy this local delicacy.

Found in the upper reaches of the Hiji River, amago, iwana, and nijimasu thrive in the pristine, brisk waters. Their firm, flavorful flesh makes them ideal for sashimi, a treat made possible by their freshness. A local specialty, satsuma, features grilled amago served over rice with a rich barley miso broth, perfect as a satisfying meal at any time of day.

Though not as famous as other river fish, Kajika is a hidden gem among river delicacies. Its Chinese character hints at its peak season—autumn. However, spring and early summer are equally delightful, as the fish is full of roe. Some regions refer to it as “river deer,” suggesting its rich, gamey flavor reminiscent of venison. Historically in Ozu, Kajika was grilled over charcoal, skewered into woven straw mats, and dried for preservation. Rarely seen in markets, it’s a well-kept secret for those in the know.

This unique dish offers a playful twist on traditional roe bowls. Smaller and lighter in color than salmon roe, the eggs are sourced from amago (Red-Spouted Trout), nijimasu (Rainbow Trout), and iwana (Char). These winter treasures have a firm, popping texture and a clean, mild taste that sets them apart. Paired with warm rice and soy sauce, the subtle flavors and stunning presentation make this dish an unforgettable experience.

When it comes to river fish royalty, eel is king. Raised in farms that draw from the Hiji River’s pristine waters, Ozu’s eel dishes stand out. Many long-established restaurants use secret sauces passed down through generations. Thick, perfectly grilled fillets are coated in the sauce and served with a smoky aroma, delivering a dish that exceeds expectations every time.